City of London is warned against turfing out Hampstead Heath café

Regulars say family-run independent eatery must not miss out in contracts shake-up

Friday, 18th July — By Dan Carrier

benugopetition

The campaign to stop the D’Auria family being replaced by the Benugo chain in 2016

REGULARS at a family-run Italian café on Parliament Hill Fields are preparing for to re-run a famous campaign to stop it being lost to a food chain.

The City of London, which manages Hampstead Heath, is asking for bids from operators to run the three cafés located on the open space.

This has left the future unclear for the eatery run by the D’Auria family, known for its affordable bowls of pasta after decades in business.

Supporters say they are ready to summon the spirit of 2016 and remind Heath bosses of the public backlash that met an attempt to bring in coffee chain.

Doug Crawford, a member of the Heath Cafe Working Group, said: “Alberto D’Auria and his family  have kept food and drink at a price that does not lock out some Heath users – and that too helps with the ambiance and increases its accessibility.”

The City has instructed commercial estate agents Davis Coffey Lyons to market the properties but, has declined to comment on how the process will work, why it is necessary, and how a winning bidder will be chosen.

No rent level is mentioned and anyone interested is invited to submit an offer to take on a 10-year lease.

Even though the D’Auria café is still thriving, the terms add any new proprietor would be able to take immediate, vacant possession.

Mr Crawford said: “There  have been no responses to our questions, and no timescale made public as to how this will proceed.”

The café user group say planned changes as to how the City of London fund the maintenance of the Heath have set alarm bells ringing.

Next year, the City will cease to provide an open-ended grant and instead plan to offer a fixed budget, with any shortfall made up by finding charitable donations, encouraging people to leave sums in their wills, and increased commercial activities.

Alberto D’Auria

Users say they fear under these changing conditions, there will be a push to extract as much money as possible out of café contracts, which also include the one at Golders Hill and another business near the Lido.

Rebecca Thorne, another member of the group, added: “It is family run, an independent firm and they deliberately keep their prices low so it caters to the clientele who use it.

“This café is not just for the well off. There are other places nearby that have a café culture which are not affordable for the communities who live near the Heath but D’Auria family provide a unique and irreplaceable service.

“The City should be proud of them and protect them – not put their livelihoods at risk. These types of cafés are becoming extinct and it deserves our support and deserves protection.”

The group added it feared a chain might offer to come in.

Benugo withdrew from the process eight years amid bad publicity surrounding the apparent takeover of a café.

Café user group member Kirstie MacAvitt added: “Benugo had 50 outlets and no identity – what they offered was unaffordable. This café is real, authentic, affordable and we are gearing up to fight any plans to change this again.”

But she added: “We feel it is a bad sign that they are planning to consult on this over the summer when many people are away.”

Those who remember the last campaign to save the café were at a stormy public meeting of Heath users, City of London bosses and members of the D’Auria family.

It was chaired by Sir Keir Starmer, long before he was leader of the Labour Party.

In response to the public sentiment and Benugo walking away from any deal, the City agreed to establish the café working group to allow Heath users to have their views known.

But members say they feel sidelined ahead of a new tender process.

Mr Crawford said: “The working group was meant to be there alongside the City to ensure we never had this issue again. It has never been officially disbanded and we met regularly before the Covid pandemic – but now they are not responding to our emails.

“We feel there is no transparency about the process, and we fear they will run a consultation during summer holidays so that doesn’t capture quite how much loved this café is.”

Café user group members Doug Crawford, Kirstie MacAvitt, Rebecca Thorne and John Etheridge

In the marketing blurb for the Lido café, estate agents say the space “benefits from dual entrances overlooking both the swimming  pool and the Parliament Hill Fields,” while a similar pitch for the Parliament Hill Fields café boasts of it having more than 100 outside covers.

Mr Crawford said: “We are worried about the broader picture. We know they’re seeking now to maximise revenue from their ‘assets’. We know they want to cut back on what they spend and want the Heath to raise more money commercially.

“But we ask: do they understand the impact this café has? If it goes out to tender, will that mean higher prices?”

Heath consultative committee member and café regular John Etheridge said: “The City is one of the richest local authorities in the world, so it doesn’t ring true that this is unaffordable. There is a feeling that there is no accountability.”

The City did not provide answers to direct questions about the process from the New Journal.

But a spokesman for the authority said: “We have a responsibility to ensure that all café facilities on Hampstead Heath support the best interests of the charity and the millions of people who visit each year.

“A competitive re-marketing process will help us enhance the visitor experience, ensuring high-quality, welcoming community spaces that continue to meet the needs of local people.”

They added: “We deeply appreciate the long-standing contributions of our café operators, some of whom have been part of the Heath for generations. Their experience and dedication are valued, and they are being encouraged to take part in this opportunity.

“We will welcome proposals that reflect the Heath’s unique character and community spirit.”

Related Articles