Published: 3 April, 2014
By DAN CARRIER

IT is a culinary landmark in Camden Town, a traditional trattoria run by the Boggi family that has introduced generations to the joys of Italian cuisine.

But Trattoria Lucca, in Parkway, is closing up for the last time at the end of April – bringing an end to a family business that started in 1958. 

Owner Paolo Boggi, who will be 94 in May, learned his way around a kitchen as a young man. He was in the Italian army during the war, serving in the catering corps. When the Italian government collapsed in 1943, he was stationed in Sienna.

He told the New Journal: “I asked my commanding officer what we should do, and he said to us, ‘Go home, boys, and keep yourselves out of trouble’.”

Mr Boggi embarked on a week-long trek through mountains and forests, travelling at night, to get back to his home village of Casciana, near Tuscany’s provincial capital Lucca that the trattoria takes its name from. He spent the next 18 months in hiding, avoiding the German army, the remnants of the Italian army, and fascist militia.

In 1947 he married his sweetheart, Virginia, and the newly-weds were able to travel over to England to work for their family, who had been in London for decades and were part of the well-established Italian community.

Mr Boggi said: “My relatives were in the catering trade, and as Italy was in total chaos, we came here to work.”

In the 1950s, they went into partnership with an older Italian couple, Mr and Mrs Ferrari, who owned a small café in Parkway. 

When the Ferraris retired, they took the business on.

Paolo and Virginia had two sons, Franco and Luciano, now in their 60s, who have been in the family business since they were children.

Luciano recalled the early days of the café as a warm place that was full of customers.

He said: “It was lovely. We served Italian food such as homemade pasta dishes like lasagne, alongside English dishes like steak and kidney pies and roast beef.” 

In the 1970s, they expanded to take over an estate agents next door. 

Franco said: “We have always been front-of-house while my parents worked in the kitchen.”

Paolo still comes downstairs every day to keep an eye on things.

Luciano said: “He might make a trifle or an apple pie, or cook something for us. Then he’ll sit here and read his Italian papers.”

The family recalled trips to markets at Smithfield, Billingsgate and Spitalfields to get what food they needed, and being able to go to Camden market or stores in Parkway to top up their stock room each day. 

Franco said: “When we were younger, there was a baker, butcher’s, a dairy, and two greengrocers in Parkway alone. Now it’s coffee shops, restaurants and estate agents.”

Over the years, customers have become friends and they have served their fair share of famous faces, including Beryl Bainbridge, AN Wilson and Jonathan Miller.

In the 1980s and 1990s, boxer Frank Bruno and his trainer George Francis would come and eat in the restaurant in the week before one of Bruno’s bouts.

Luciano said: “When Frank won the WBC world heavyweight belt at Wembley Stadium against Oliver McCall in 1995, he came here that morning and had our tagliatelle carbonara. My father still claims it was his pasta that made Bruno the heavyweight champion of the world.”

The family will still live above the shop and will rent it out to a new fish restaurant.

Luciano added: “There is a lot we will miss, such as the rapport we have with our customers. And, of course, we’ll miss eating a free meal in the family restaurant each day.”