East West’s pizza list offers plenty of variety

IT’S a concept that might dismay the pizza purist – Neapolitan style but with an Indian twist.

East West in Tufnell Park serves a unique fusion of Italian and Indian cuisine.

Arancini, the deep-fried rice balls, are stuffed with saag paneer; pizzas topped with tandoori chicken or an achar pickle sauce. But judging by the packed tables – and constant ping of Deliveroo orders – this mash-up of a menu is proving a smash hit.

East West opened in Fortess Road a couple of years ago, just before the Covid pandemic. Owner Devinder Singh was new to the restaurant trade, having quit a career as a mechanical engineer.

Covid lockdowns almost crushed the business. But a first-place award on the television series Britain’s Top Takeaways helped to claw East West back from the brink.

The restaurant – and the menu itself – are compact, well-designed and appealing. Fairy lights twinkle around the front window. There are simple tables set over two floors, with a bar set right the back.

The menu offers a clever mix of familiar dishes and options which are far more off-piste. There are a dozen small plates or starters, veering from chana masala to burrata cheese with homemade focaccia.

The tandoor oven sizzles with marinated lamp chops or butterflied Tiger prawns served with a Singapore garlic sauce.

I ordered the terrific triple-cooked Masala fries – dusted with spices and dipped in a garlicky aioli.

The pizza list offers lots of variety. You can swap in vegan cheese or a gluten-free base; go for a classic Margherita or their version with spicy sauce, paneer and fresh coriander. I tried the bestselling CTM, topped with tandoori chicken, roasted peppers and crispy onions. Toppings are generous; the base thin and crispy; the crust carefully charred and blistered.

Overall, the dining experience at East West is mellow and laid back. The music is low.

Service was a tad slow on the night I visited, as the kitchen was loaded with orders. But the young staff are attentive and friendly. The drinks list offers plenty of distraction, too.

There are craft beers from local breweries Two Tribes and Hammerton, organic wines, cocktails and soft drinks such as nimbupani, a homemade lemonade.

These are tough times for the restaurant trade, as inflation and soaring bills put huge pressure on their bottom line.

“Staff is our number one concern,” explains Singh. “After Covid, a lot of good staff left the industry completely.”

He takes great care to make sure his team do not burn out.

Ingredients costs are skyrocketing: wheat flour is up 50 per cent; other lines have more than doubled. The restaurant’s energy bill has risen from £15,000 to £42,000 per year.

But East West is a strong concept building a loyal fanbase in NW5. The fusion of flavours is unusual but most definitely works – this bold business has all the ingredients to succeed.

East West
135 Fortess Rd, NW5
020 3302 5300
@eastwestlondon
www.eastwestlondon.com