The food at Cafe Koko is excellent – generous in spirit and well put together. Photo: Calum Morrison

MANY of us treasure hazy memories of Koko before the club was engulfed in flames. The music and talent were often fantastic; the toilets unspeakably revolting.

But the £70 million restoration has transformed this historic venue beyond recognition – including the new Cafe Koko out the back.

This bar and restaurant, open 8am until 2am, inhabits the green-tiled shell of what was once the Hope and Anchor pub, built in the 1860s.

The revamped Koko has also absorbed the defunct piano factory behind the theatre and features another 15 or so spaces spread over 50,000 square feet – including a warren-like members’ club and art gallery.

Cafe Koko is beautifully designed and has pulled off the enviable feat of feeling cutting-edge cool from the instant it opened. The space, set over two levels, morphs and evolves as each day unfolds.

At first, they serve breakfasts and brunches from a menu that includes Sicilian baked eggs, stacks of fluffy pancakes and peanut butter brioche French toast.

Later, it’s more about the pizzas with creative toppings. The Lambrechts, for example, is named after the Belgian street artist whose work adorns the walls. This is topped with goat’s cheese, shawarma lamb, coriander and garlic yoghurt; or choose a plant-based number with fennel “sausage”, artichokes, pesto and vegan cheese.

Other specials might include baked gnocchi with Delica squash and parmesan or garlic and rosemary chicken with kale and chilli.

The bar gets lively from early afternoon. Take advantage of their special happy hour for locals, with 50 per cent off drinks from 4-7pm on weekdays. (Quote the code ‘CNJHH’ upon arrival.)

The drinks list includes craft beers from Two Tribes brewery in King’s Cross, wines from East Sussex, and cocktails such as the Honeycomb: a shake-up of vodka, Hampstead honey, peach, elderflower and a squeeze of lemon.

We spent a few happy hours in the restaurant one Sunday, as three Brazilian musicians jammed soulfully on the small stage. This is a good time to bring the whole family, with children also welcome.

The food we tried was excellent – generous in spirit and well put together. Baked eggs, for example, was oozy comfort food of the highest order, with the gentle kick of ‘nduja. Service is swift and super friendly.

A highlight here is the fabulous collection of artwork on the walls: a mixture of paintings and classic music photography, with black and white portraits of musical greats in their prime.

If you ever get the chance, do explore the rest of the building. The House of Koko is the members’ club section spanning four floors of interconnected bars and restaurants culminating in a cocktail bar in the dome at the very top.

Alongside the main music stage there is the newly opened Koko Gallery, too, with pop-up exhibitions every two or three weeks and the Koko radio station to help boost new talent.

This new, multi-faceted Koko is impressive from every angle. You need real vision – and deep pockets – to pull off a feat like this.

Cafe Koko
74 Crowndale Road, NW1
0207 388 3222
www.cafe-koko.co.uk
@cafekokocamden