UPDATED EVERY THURSDAY
Thursday November 28th, 2002
All content © New Journal Enterprises, 2002.
 
 
 
 
 
 
BY NICK TUSON
DON PEDRO'S REVIEW
TASTING THE FLAMES OF PASSION

The Pan Amb Tomaquet (bread rubbed in garlic and topped with tomato, garlic and olive oil) was delicious. The Crema Catalana was simply amazing. We were at Don Pedro’s for dinner. Set on a corner in the attractive Exmouth Market, it is an easy journey to this peaceful, yet central by-way, and they are also open for breakfast and lunch.

From the Tapas menu, the Habas y Panceta (broad beans with panceta and paprika) was warming and good; the Patatas Bravas nicely spicy and the Pescadito Frito (deep-fried whitebait in breadcrumbs) crisp and fresh. The Barenjena Fritada (deep-fried aubergine fritters) were crisp – not the greasy, soggy mess you so often find. The house red was a gentle Rioja (£10.50) – perfect for Catalan cuisine.

I would have liked the whitebait cooked a minute longer and the Patatas Bravas a little crisper – but I always think that, wherever I am in England, and I doubt you will be disappointed. Almost half the Tapas menu is suitable for vegetarians and if you include fish that rises to three-quarters – and the Tapas is good enough to be your main meal.

We were so enjoying the food and atmosphere that by the time we arrived at the main course our chosen dishes of Bacalao Fresco con salsa verde (loin of fresh cod, Pan Amb Tomaquet, tapanade and a fresh herb sauce) and Butifarra (chargrilled Catalan pork sausage, served with Pan Amb Tomaquet (yes, we liked it that much) were unavailable.

Instead we had the Paella Valenciana (prawns, chicken, peas, carrots and peppers) – a third of the main dishes are vegetarian, including a vegetarian paella. Ours was heavy with prawns, muscles and squid as well as chicken, although they forgot the vegetables, cooked without stock, and it was not quite a paella. We think there were some problems that evening and that it was not representative.

And then that sublime Crema Catalana. I also ordered strawberry cheesecake. Served beautifully, if you like a delicate, light cheesecake you will like this. Personally I would order two Crema Catalanas. Or four.

The recent refurbishment gives a warm, earthy and comfortable interior: Fresh flowers, natural wood and friendly staff made the whole experience a pleasure. It was a joy to see an extended family at one corner table and a romantic couple at another. Elsewhere are a bar and easy chairs.

Go as soon as you can; you are sure to enjoy it – unless, like me, you are so busy looking around at the exciting dishes that you set fire to your shirt on a candle, then imprint the cheesecake on your chest as you lean forward!

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