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| REVIEWS | By KATE SHERRATT |
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The restaurant looks as good as a sugar-dusted Turkish delight. Bathed in a pink glow from flickering chandeliers, the elegant understated décor creates a relaxed atmosphere for dining or pre-dinner cocktails. It is a trendy place – leather and pine spiced up by the cushions bought from the Grand Bazaar. Downstairs are inviting bar caves and plans for a cushion-filled chill out area to follow soon. There is a pleasant air of bustle as the chefs rustle up skewers of fresh marinated meats and fish and the friendly staff breeze past taking orders. A funky, ambient blend of Turkish folk music and beats allows you to slip gently into the evening, enveloped in the warmth breathed from the charcoals of the open kitchen. The food itself is a blend of traditional and modern: sucuk – spicy Turkish sausages flavoured with cumin – rub shoulders with smoked salmon and crème caramel. Dishes are simple, colourful and many feel Mediterranean. There is fresh seafood in abundance, lots of vegetables and salads as well as the kebabs and grilled meats that are the Turkish staples. There is strength in the simplicity of the menu. The essence of Pastirmali Kuzu is the lamb fillet, with a Turkish twist in the pastirma – a kind of cured beef – that is wrapped around it. Impeccably grilled prawns are teamed with a crisp parsley and garlic sauce. Surprising ingredients are put together in vibrant ways. The Sebze Terrine, a cool, fresh blend of carrots, peas and potato puree, came beautifully wrapped in green cabbage leaves surrounded by colourful dashes of sauce. Desserts are a blend of Turkish and European, from the alcoholic kick of pears flambéed with cognac to sweet baklava pastries with pistachio, and honey syrup. A relaxed atmosphere and simple stylish food should make this newcomer a fast favourite for central London diners. |
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