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| It’s time to talk turkey |
While digging out some tantalising Yuletide
delight, Phin Foster finds there is no simple route to culinary
happiness
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Paul Langly, of Cramers, on York Way
Harry Dasht, of the Pure Meat Company
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EVERY family has a Christmas dinner disaster story. This is unsurprising
as the most important meal of the year is often prepared in a climate
of chaos.
It is the one day that morning drinking is actively encouraged,
children are high on sugar before sunrise and relatives can’t
be made to disappear through simply not answering the phone. Amidst
all the bedlam, a meal fit for a king and substantial enough to
feed a small army is supposed to be rustled up with the minimum
of fuss.
Tempers fray and mistakes are made so perhaps the actual purveyors
of our Christmas grub can provide some tips on ensuring that this
year’s blowout runs more smoothly.
Paul Langly, manager of Cramers butchers on York Way, has no doubts
as to what he’ll be eating come the 25th.
“Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without a turkey.”
he says. “We have had more orders than usual for geese but
I try to talk people out of buying them. They are harder to work
with and a medium-sized goose will only feed five mouths, six maximum.”
Paul uses just one supplier for his Christmas birds and is quick
to sing his turkeys’ praises. He says: “They are reared
in the traditional way: no fish mill, no growth hormones, no antibiotics
and no GM-modified foods. They are starved for three days before
killing, in order to clear the intestines, and then hung with their
innards, adding depth to the flavour.”
Does he take responsibility for cooking this fine beast?
“Always. In this game you’re up at 5am every morning.
You can’t just turn that off for Christmas Day. I’ll be
up at dawn getting the bird ready.”
Any tips? “Stuff the cavity. A lot of people, my wife included,
might complain but it has to be done. Also, don’t cover the
bird with tinfoil otherwise it won’t brown properly. It’s
that brown skin I go for first.”
Harry and Tania Dasht, proprietors of the Pure Meat Company and
B&M Seafood in Kentish Town Road, have noticed an increasing
variety in their customers’ Christmas tastes.
“A lot of people don’t now want the same thing year after
year,” Harry says. “This year we have been taking extra
orders for rolled beef and venison.”
The Dashts will be having 18 people around their table this year,
a nightmare surely?
“It’ll be great,” Harry says. “We’ll have
turkey cooked in the traditional way, at roughly 170 degrees/gas
mark 7, 20 minutes per pound. We make sure that the breast is covered
properly to stop it drying out and always allow the bird to sit
after cooking to keep in the juices.” Any other tips? “Just
relax. Take it easy and you will find that everything ends up okay.”
One thing that Harry is rather less relaxed about is that the Christmas
bird is organic. “The prices are dearer”, he admits, “but
through supporting the organic industry you’re promoting bio-diversity,
healthy farming, healthy birds. Therefore, you are promoting your
health and the health of those around you.”
John Grayson, owner of the Bumblebee Natural Foods on the Brecknock
Road, is another man proud not to be “adding to the hideous
battery poultry industry”, although this won’t mean more
business for butchers. John and his family take a less meaty approach
to their Christmas banquet.
“The children will choose their favourite food and my wife
and I will just get on with preparing a nice meal,” he says.
So there is no Christmas blowout? “Not at all. We try to eat
well everyday so to try to eat extra, or extra well, on one particular
day of the year seems rather perverse.”
Is there nothing that sets the meal apart? “I’d have to
say not. There is no great tradition like there is for meat eaters.
In some families what you have at Christmas dinner goes back through
generations. When my generation converted to vegetarianism it was
a sort of rebellion against all that.
“For us it’s all about the presents. The meal is just
something that the kids want to get out of the way so that they
can start opening them.”
His store does make provisions for those vegetarian households who
want something a little more festive. Nut roasts are made to order
and slices sold at the takeaway counter.
They also stock suet-free Christmas puddings and mince pies as well
as providing dried fruit and nuts for baking.
So, what tips does John have for averting disaster on Christmas
day? He looks me square in the eye, “Don’t buy a turkey!”
So, there you have it. Cook the turkey uncovered; keep the turkey
breast covered; don’t buy a turkey at all. |
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Don't waste your finest on relatives
DO you enjoy or endure Christmas? It isn’t only that we’re
bullied into spending money we haven’t got.
FULL STORY
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