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| Angelino’s finest are put
to the test |
Farrell Anglin is taking on the big boys with
quality, not quantity (and should pubs serve strong wine?)
Farrell Anglin and Grace Sahlani in his Hornsey depot |
WE came across Angelino Wines, sandwiched between two colourful
and aggressively self-promoting Australian wine sellers, at Islington’s
London Wine Event at the end of October.
Its owner is Farrell Anglin, whose imagination was caught by a lecture
on the history of wine making at Southgate College.
Farrell has no shop, just a website and a small office with storage
space on an industrial estate in Hornsey.
His list consists of 44 wines from seven countries, and his business
is as far from the gloss and hype of contemporary marketing as you
will get.
The list is small but it’s discriminating. It attempts to offer
wines less likely to be found elsewhere, in the belief, Farrell
said, that “there are more choices out there than people realise”.
Angelino is nearly four years old. Before that Farrell spent 13
years selling wine for Tesco, Safeway and Waitrose. So far he has
sold mostly to restaurants and clubs, but now wishes to branch out.
Each country on Farrell’s list is represented by between two
(Australia) and eight (France and Italy) wines.
It’s unusual in a number of ways. For example, there are five
German wines, which are considered underrated.
Among these Farrell singles out a Bacchus Spatlese (£7.86)
“combining sweetness and acidity with other tones of melons
and fruit – not excessively sweet,” Farrell says. But
his greatest love is for champagne.
Out of nine brands on his list he recommends two. These are André
Simon’s award-winning cuvée at £15.99 a bottle
(Farrell says it’s “relatively inexpensive and excellent
value”) and Gosset Rosé at £36.99 (“the best
rosé on the market but not as well known as other champagnes,”
Farrell concludes).
Farrell’s skill lies in meeting the needs of restaurateurs
for clean tasting, not necessarily fruity, modern wines that complement
food at reasonable prices.
The clubs buy champagne, the restaurants wine.
Farrell recommended two wines. Firstly, a 2004 Hadeda chenin chardonnay
from South Africa (12.5 per cent) at £5.50 a bottle –
“good balance, easy to drink: good with salads, fish or lunch
dishes,” he said.
Secondly, a 2004 Chilean Vina Reguinga (Puerto Viejó) chardonnay
with 13 per cent at £5.75. “It’s unoaked, golden
in colour, honey flavour with lively balance”.
Our panel of six found the Hadeda to be a light, acidic and pleasant
wine, clean tasting and fresh – a good example of contemporary
wine making.
The Chilean chardonnay was heavier, consistent and balanced, which
mellowed after opening.
But the taste of the wine tended to remain in the front of the mouth.
• Orders over £50 are delivered free. 020 8348 7399 or
email Angelino-wines@btconnect.com
• And finally, a comment on the government’s ‘binge
drinking’ proposals announced last week. The debate seems be
focused on the behaviour of young adults and the relative fall in
the cost of alcoholic drinks.
It is true that the cost of a bottle of wine has halved in real
terms since 1965.
However, because wines are being produced in much warmer climates
where grapes make more fruit, alcohol levels have also risen. In
many cases these now reach as high as 15 per cent.
This is more than a 40 per cent increase in a few years.
We’re not sure whether pubs, wine-bars and other places, where
wine is regularly provided without food, should be encouraged to
sell wines with lower levels of alcohol. But the issue needs to
be raised. Cost is not the only issue. What people drink and the
context in which this takes place are also important. |
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Angelino's finest are put to the test
WE came across Angelino Wines, sandwiched between two colourful and
aggressively self-promoting Australian wine sellers, at Islington’s
London Wine Event at the end of October.
Its owner is Farrell Anglin, whose imagination was caught by a lecture
on the history of wine making at Southgate College.
FULL STORY
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