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| Be carried off to the Aegean |
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Greek chef Efthymios Vernardos, 48, Russian waitress Marina
Zilyakawa, 27, Greek manager Koullis Phylactides, 48, who
has been there for 16 years
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IT is true what my friend the late Larry Adler replied when asked
which was the best restaurant: “Where they know you.”
I have been coming to Andy’s (opened in 1968) for many years
when Koullis was the chef.
Now he fronts the house with charm, making the patrons feel at home.
The regulars are recognised and their preferences are remembered.
Andy’s Taverna is divided into two rooms – one has the
bar and the other has the exhibition kitchen with a beautiful fruit
bowl next to it.
I prefer the latter and watch how the dishes materialise one after
the other from this rather small but very organised area. They also
have a patio which seats 30.
The thalassi (pale sea) coloured walls with lovely paintings of
boats and sea views give an atmosphere of tranquillity with the
soft Greek music in the background. I had hoped to hear my favourite
song: Maria ma ta Kitrina (Maria in the Yellow Dress) but it was
not part of the music selection whilst I was there.
The sea bass and sea bream come fresh from Cyprus three times weekly
so tsiboura and lavraki are just what you would have in the island
of Aegina.
Opting not to have the mezedes and out of a large selection of hors
d’oeuvres which included an aubergine dip, broad beans and
artichokes, garlic Greek sausages, stuffed vine leaves, spinach
and feta cheese pastry parcels, we started with the more conservative
kalamari (deep-fried squid) £8.95 and avocado prawns (£4.95)
which were very good.
There is a large selection of vegetarian dishes including a vegetarian
platter (£9.50) featuring a selection of dishes served with
Greek salad. There is also Andy’s fish platter for two (£22.95)
which includes taramasalata, houmous, fish salad, sea bass, swordfish
and king prawns with salad and Cyprus chips.
The traditional mezedes (selection of various Greek dishes £13.95)
is very popular although we opted to have kleftico (£9.95)
as our main course served with potatoes and Greek salad.
The baked lamb melts in your mouth and the taste is delicious. Dessert
consisted of a fruit platter: pears, kiwi, bananas and oranges with
bits of baklava. The house wine label, matching the colours of the
walls, was excellent. Blanc Cambas (£9.95) is dry and light
and a good example of the Mediterranean heritage in Pikermi, Attica.
Andy’s are offering two Christmas menus (lunch £l4.95
and dinner £19.95).
They offer the Greek speciality mezedes but on request you can also
order the traditional turkey for a main course. Andy’s Taverna
is better than just ‘entaxy’, which mean okay in Greek.
Andy’s Taverna
81 Bayham Street, NW1
020 7485 9718 |
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Angelino's finest are put to the test
WE came across Angelino Wines, sandwiched between two colourful and
aggressively self-promoting Australian wine sellers, at Islington’s
London Wine Event at the end of October.
Its owner is Farrell Anglin, whose imagination was caught by a lecture
on the history of wine making at Southgate College.
FULL STORY
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