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Treat your tastebuds fairly

Ethical-produced coffee is building up a loyal fan base, whatever the weather. Peter Gruner hears more


Co-founder Pat Woodward


Becky Hunter

IT may not be Starbucks but Becky Hunter, who serves coffee from a pavement stall, is proud that she is helping developing world traders get a decent return for every drink that she sells.
Rather than a plush looking shop with piped music, Becky makes do with the forecourt of St Mary’s Church, Upper Street, Islington, from where she provides coffee in all weather.
Since the Fairtrade stall opened in April business has been booming and customers include shoppers, traders and many of the stars from the King’s Head Theatre across the road.
Tables and chairs are now provided for the growing community of coffee and tea drinkers, and Becky hopes to carry on throughout winter.
However, if it is really pouring she can shelter under a church alcove.
Becky, 23, is also a part time artist who will shortly be exhibiting at the church crypt.
She said: “In the meantime I’m quite happy with the 6am start and I love working outside, whatever the weather. I’ve got lots of regular customers now and it is all very friendly. I couldn’t work indoors.”
She feels very strongly about Fairtrade produce and added: “It means people in the developing world are able to make a living as a result of someone drinking their coffee over here. Fairtrade workers – the ones who grow the coffee and make the produce – are not exploited and are being paid a reasonable price for their work.”
The café was set up by Islington architects Mathew Lloyd and Pat Woodward with St Mary’s vicar Rev Graham Kings.
Pat said: “Our regulars originally came because we were selling Fairtrade drinks but now they tell us that our coffee is better than that which is available at the normal chains.
“Our coffee is slightly cheaper than normally available but we say it is a lot stronger. Once you’ve tried our coffee you’ll never want any other variety.
“We believe the big chains provide wishy-washy, insipid coffee and only pay lip service to Fairtrade.”
Revd Kings is delighted that the café is a big success. The church also runs a Fairtrade coffee bar inside the crypt on the last Thursday of every month from 10am to 7.30pm and every Saturday from 10am to 4pm.
“Islington is an area where people want to use ethical products,” he said. “And the products themselves are as good and often better quality than that produced by a large, less socially aware businesses.”
The market for Fairtrade foods – products that guarantee producers in the developing world fair wages and working conditions – is now running at £100m, according to a recent report. More supermarkets are stocking the certified products, which now include Fairtrade flowers.
From just chocolate, coffee and tea 10 years ago, more than 250 products carry the Fairtrade mark today.
Latest figures show shoppers are now spending more than £2m per week at the checkout on official Fairtrade foods.
Roses flown in from Kenya to Tesco became the first product that is not food to get Fairtrade status.
The growers receive a guaranteed minimum wage plus eight per cent of the export price.
To stop unscrupulous firms from cashing in on a growing trend, only goods that undergo strict monitoring can qualify for the official mark.



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