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| Get to work on your tannin |
The French are quietly taming their wines to make
them palatable to the British market
Pomerol, in south west France |
BORDEAUX winemakers – long regarded as the world’s
greatest – are in trouble. Government health campaigns and
strict enforcement of French drink driving laws are causing a
dramatic decrease in French wine consumption.
Winemakers are searching for new and growing markets. One of the
biggest of these is the UK. But Bordeaux’s wine is considered
unsuitable for this market. The main problem being the high tannin
content in French red wines.
Any wine drinker glancing at the back label on a bottle of red
wine will soon come across the word tannin – often pre-ceded
by an adjective such as polished, rounded, hard, soft, aggressive
and even chewy. So what are tannins?
Tannins are a complex natural chemical substance with a highly
astringent and sometimes mouth puckering taste which are released
into wine from the seeds, skins and stems of fermenting grapes.
They give structure to all wines and improve the aging potential
of reds. They are also excellent natural preservatives and antioxidants.
Even with cheaper wines intended for early drinking, tannins can
be useful, particularly when wine is drunk with strong-tasting
sauces and grilled meats.
The trouble is that tannic wines are poor on their own or with
lighter tasting foods. The French, who as a rule tend to drink
wine with food and rarely on its own, are adapting their wines
in order to sell them in a British market that favours the opposite.
Quietly, but with great efficiency, they have set about taming
their tannins. New growing and fermenting techniques have been
introduced and most controversially, a new technological procedure
called micro-oxgenisation is being widely used.
This involves the regular pumping of tiny micro bubbles into the
wine during production. The result of these changes is that Bordeaux
wines have less tannins and a different taste. The producers are
delighted “the wines taste fruiter and livelier” they
say.
But some wine drinkers are not so sure and claim the wines taste
incomplete. Others, particularly those who favour expensive wines
such as the ones from Pomerol – where these new techniques
are widely practiced – fear the aging potential is reduced.
Only a few years ago, Bordeaux’s wine makers were gearing
up to defend their style of wines from attacks by the international
wine cartel.
Now with hardly a shot having being fired, they have surrendered.
Their substantial wines are being stylised.
Marketing is seen as more important than tradition and experienced
wine makers’ are dismissed as old fashioned.
A joy of the British wine market has been the wide variety available.
This is changing fast and rationalisation rules.
Unusual wines are being replaced by those that conform to a narrow,
international wine style.
When small British farmers were forced out of the food market,
they responded by coming to town. They set up farmers’ markets
and began supplying independent restaurants and shops.
The question is, can traditional wine makers find an equally inventive
way of putting their wines in front of the British?
• The tannin test – a simple way to understand tannins.
With certain foods, tannins in red wine add to the enjoyment of
a meal but they can overpower mild dishes.
Compare French food with its creamy and strongly flavoured sauces
and highly tannic red wines and Italian food with onion, tomato
and lemon-based sauces and wines that are low in tannins. The
wine and the food are intended to complement each other.
A footnote to Chateau Jouanin, discussed last week. Mary Carter,
a former King’s Cross resident now moved to Hastings, gave
us her impressions of this 2002 Cotes de Castillon (Sainsbury’s,
£6.99). “On opening, sharp, big tannin, fruity. After
10 minutes, considerably less sharp, fuller bodied, similar fruitiness,
less tannin. After two and a half hours, tannin-related rough
tongue still present, fruit flavour emerging with more clarity.
We found it to be excellent with freshly cooked beetroot with
juniper berries and pepper.”
A bottle of Penfold’s 2001 Koonunga Hill, Shiraz Cabernet
from south east Australia with 13.5 per cent (Morrison’s
£5.99) was drunk at the same meal.
“On opening, immediate full body – not much balance
– big first hit. Chemically – immediate slight headache.
Better with a dessert – we chose grilled fresh figs with
mascarpone.”
• If you have any wine views
or wish to recommend an honest bottle, write to us at the Journal
or email wine@camdennewjournal.co.uk
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Get to work on your tannin
BORDEAUX winemakers – long regarded as the world’s greatest
– are in trouble. Government health campaigns and strict enforcement
of French drink driving laws are causing a dramatic decrease in French
wine consumption.
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