Thirsty reporter Mark Blunden takes a frothy history lesson when he visits a tavern that mirrors the pubs of Victorian London

ACRY of hallelujah rang out as I wound my way through the cobbled alleys of Clerkenwell, finally finding Jerusalem.
The Jerusalem Tavern, that is.
This fine pub does not conjure thoughts of “England’s green and pleasant land”, more swigging porter from a chipped tankard in a craggy Dickensian boozer.
With its creaky beams, centuries-old flooring and ale straight from the keg, The Jerusalem Tavern provides the ultimate remedy to buffed brass chain bars.
Its stripped wood and faded flaky varnish exterior hide a truly unique alehouse straight out of the Pickwick Papers.
But all is not quite as it seems, for the wonderful Jerusalem plays a publican’s version of the magician’s sleight of hand.
The pub in its present location has only been there for 11 years, lovingly restored from its previous incarnations as a watchmakers and early 18th-century coffee house.
Artist William Hogarth and composer Georg Frederic Handel both reportedly enjoyed a cuppa and a chinwag at the shop.
But The Jerusalem Tavern’s history goes back much further, through four moves of premises, right back to the 13th century.
Its first location was a place of comfort for the returning crusaders, Knights of the Order of St John, in nearby St John’s Square.
Licensee Steve Medniuk, 33, said: “We deliberately kept it like this and wanted everything as original as possible. This is a place where you can enjoy good food and good drink and have a conversation as opposed to hearing gaming machines and loud music.
“People are generally wowed when they step in here.”
Everything is English Heritage Grade I listed up to the hilt.
So much so that it has taken weeks to replace a cracked window pane with the approved glass.
So authentic is the drinking experience at The Jerusalem Tavern that there is only one draught lager – the fantastic German Bittberger.
Beers from the St Peter’s brewery, which owns the pub, include lemon and ginger porter and organic best bitter.
For between £2.80 and £2.90 a pint, the Jerusalem is certainly cheaper than many nearby hostelries.
The food menu is honest and very English with all the meat coming from Smithfield Market.
It is absolutely true that the best steak pies in London are to be found in pubs within half-a-mile of the ancient market.
Other traditional favourites, such as pollock (more sustainable) fish cakes, appear on the Jerusalem’s menu.
Despite the age of the row of buildings in which the Jerusalem lives, the pub, Mr Mednuik insists “is not haunted”.
However, he did tell of one strange incident where, if not ghosts, then an electronic till service engineer can expect some serious questions from his line manager.
Mr Mednuik said: “We did have one experience where we were opening up in the morning and the buttons on the till just kept being pressed even though there was no one anywhere near them.
“It was constantly ringing and cashing itself off. It was really bizarre, we couldn’t do anything to stop it – even unplugging it didn’t work.”

• The Jerusalem Tavern, 55, Britton Street, EC1. 020 7490 4281.