Meat is the order of the day at Rowley’s, writes our star restaurant critic Tatiana von Saxe

WITH so much bad press about red meat do I dare write about Rowley’s?
Their speciality and what they are really known for is a chargrilled entrecote steak served with their unique herb and butter sauce and unlimited French fries (£17.15).
If you are still hungry you can have a second steak at £4.75. Breast of Sussex chicken is also offered as an alternative.
Rumour has it that Rowley’s had the Parisian restaurant Le Relais de Venice in Port Maillot – started by Brigitte Bardot – in mind when they opened in Jermyn Street. Whilst I have never found anyone who can confirm this, having eaten at both, I do find striking similarities.
A difference worth mentioning is that in Paris the client is given two steaks which are served one at a time.
Rowley’s menu includes Crayfish and Prawn Linguini with Roast Garlic, Herbs and white wine (£13.95), Pan-fried Medallions of Monkfish (£15.95) and Sautéed Tiger Prawns in herb butter sauce (£17.50). Side vegetables or salad (£4.95).
Starters include Antipasto of Cured Meats with Pickles, Artichokes and Toasted Ciabatta (£6.75) and Smoked Salmon and Asparagus Risotto (£7).
Desserts are £6.50 and include Raspberry Panacotta with Poached Raspberries and a rich Chocolate and Brandy Tart with Clotted Cream). House wines include Cuvee Jean Paul white or red at £15.50 a bottle are a good buy. There are 49 other wine choices from Chile, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and North America.
The steak is the thing to have. It is prepared in the kitchen and cooked on an open flame and then brought to the table on a stainless steel plate on a burner that keeps it hot.
The restaurant in Jermyn Street used to be a butcher’s shop and still has the original tiles on the walls. Centrally located in the heart of Piccadilly, it has a unique décor. The charming intimate small Jermyn Street Theatre is just across the street.
Their recently opened branch in Conduit Street offers the same menu but the décor is quite different emphasizing an elegant modern look. When I stopped for a quick dinner after a meeting I had the steak and French fries £17.25, and a glass of house red £5.45.
With service added at 12.5 per cent – the total bill came to £25.43. I noticed that the credit card bill had been left open although the service had been included.
The company is very marketing oriented with a Rowley’s Loyalty card which awards a one point for every £5 spent.

Rowley’s
113 Jermyn Street,
Piccadilly, SW1.
Call 020 7930 2707.
Open 7 days a week.
12-3 pm and 5.30 pm to 11 pm.
23 Conduit Street, W1.
Call 020 7493 7050.
Open Mon-Fri.
12-3 pm and 5.30 pm to 11 pm.
Weekends 9am – 8pm.