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Mimo hangs in a buffalo stance
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Buffalo mozarella is well-known to pizza enthusiasts,
but what about buffalo steaks or even burgers? Mimo Rimolis
restaurant Fratelli La Bufala has them all, writes Dan Carrier
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THE Italians are renowned for their passion for food. The
traditional trattoria has along had a place in the average British
high street Italian cafes have a long history in England,
and Italian restaurants have always been palatable to the English
stomach it has always had a very Anglo twist to it.
But in South End Green a new restaurant has opened that brings
Italy to London in a way that has not been seen before.
Mimo Rimoli (pictured) is a Neopolitan who married a girl from
Surrey, he spent much of his time commuting from the home counties
to his home town, where he helped with his familys many
businesses.
But with a young family of his own to spend time with, the monthly
trips to and fro lead him to think about turning his skills elsewhere,
and so he decided to set up a branch of his familys restaurant
business, which was originally set up by his cousins.
Known as the Fratelli la Bufala, it is established across Italy
they boast more than 20 branches, with their Roman flagship
seating 300 people.
They run a pizza school in Naples, where chefs come to learn the
secrets of dough, sauces and toppings and have become a byword
for quality.
It means they take food seriously. Antonio the chef is a fourth
generation pizza cook and his oven was built by Nepalese
brick workers who flew in just to do the job. So secretive are
they of their trade, they told the rest of the staff to hop it
for a week while they created the huge, pot-bellied, wood-fired
oven. They didnt want the secrets of their trade to be revealed.
As Mimo explains, the company is not just any other Italian restaurant.
He said: What makes us different is our association with
Buffalo farmers in Campania. We decided to marry our culinary
skills with the areas knowledge of producing food from buffaloes
and the restaurants were born.
Buffalo cheese and meat is good for you: it is lean. The pizzas
are topped with 100 per cent Buffalo mozzarella. It matches the
rest of the menu: if ricotta is used, it is buffalo ricotta. The
menu is riddled with buffalo meat wafer thin slivers of
buffalo hams and salamis. Fat juicy buffalo steaks. Buffalo fillets.
Buffalo burgers with slices of smoked provola cheese
and buffalo sausages. All come with vegetables, including aromatic
roast potatoes basted in olive oil infused in rosemary.
And for the vegetarian, the place offers gentle delicacies: La
Millefoglie is a particularly original dish, featuring a layer
of aubergine, provola cheese and basil with a tomato coulis.
Gnocchi comes with a creamy buffalo ricotta sauce and even the
desserts feature buffalo products, such as cheese cake with ricotta
or a ricotta and chocolate fondue. And what makes the menu stand
out is the fact the food is flown in three times a week.
As Mimo jokes: I stopped commuting to Italy, so now my food
has to.
Fratelli la Bufala
45a South End Road, NW3
Call 020 7435 7814.
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