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Full steam ahead for relaxation
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Take the plunge and indulge yourself in the Turkish bath
experience writes Peter Gruner
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Ironmonger Row Turkish Baths general manager Lee Turnfold
and membership secretary Jo Armstrong. Top: The swimming
pool
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FROM mothers and secretaries, to taxi drivers and judges,
its a haven from the grimy inner city a place to
gossip, argue and sweat over the issues of the day.
Wrapped up in a towel, naked or semi-naked, everyone is equal
at Ironmonger Row Baths, Old Street, where on a good day the level
of political debate is better than anything they turn out in Parliament.
While dozens of the capitals popular municipal baths closed
in the 1970s, Islingtons Ironmonger Row has stood the test
of time for almost a century, defying change, modernisation and
the bulldozer.
It is one of the few places left in London where the name Turkish
bath and sauna does not break the Trade Descriptions Act. Where
the steam and sauna experience at many establishments these days
has been reduced to a few wooden cabins and a cold or tepid shower,
Ironmonger Row Bath boasts the works.
Theres a choice of three saunas, each with varying temperatures,
a steam room that doesnt switch on and off but remains hot
and steamy, and of course, most importantly, a proper ice-cold
plunge pool, for those hardy enough, that provides the necessary
invigoration. One suspects that Islington Council would not dare
close Ironmonger Row without upsetting half of Clerkenwell and
the City.
Historically, Turkish baths despite their name were
originally created by the Romans.
While they disappeared in England when the Roman Empire fell,
they were kept alive in the Islamic world.
Ironmonger Row is an excellent reminder of how we used to relax.
By the second half of the 14th-century London was full of Turkish
baths better known as stews. But public uproar
against percieved immorality and a fear of the plague caused them
to shut down, one by one.
By the 17th century they began to gain popularity again, and in
Victorian times they got the support of doctors, who were staunch
advocates of the steam bath.
In the 20th century, before private bathrooms became the norm,
local authorities provided bathhouses and Ironmonger Row Baths
was built in 1931. Some say that little has changed since that
date (apart from thankfully the towels and water).
Choose your day of visit according to your gender (although on
Mondays there are mixed sessions).
When inside, you can immediately see where the entry price is
being spent. A large, dimly lit, dorm-like room greets you.
This is where you can get changed, and also where you return to
relax in one of the many beds after your steam.
When undressed, you can choose from a variety of rooms at a variety
of (hot) temperatures. Those in the know recommend steam first,
then sauna with an icy plunge in between.
The sauna itself has several levels. Clearly the hotter and the
sweatier one gets, the more toxins are purged.
Once inside, dont be alarmed to hear loud shrieks as people
dunk themselves in the icy plunge pool.
At the baths you can have a complete rub down and scrub or, if
youre feeling more indulgent, choose from a variety of different
massages on offer (these must be booked in advance).
Once youve sweated enough, retire once more to the relaxing
bedchamber and take half an hour to rest and recuperate with a
book or a magazine before you venture outside. It is a perfect
tonic at the end of a stressful week.
Call Ironmonger Row Baths on 020 7253 4011. The morning
cost is £6.70 (Izz card £5.70); after 12pm and weekends
£11.50 (Izz card £9.30). The opening hours are mixed
Mondays 2pm-9.30pm; Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday for men; Wednesday,
Friday, Sunday for women.
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